Note on terminology: All gun types are referred to as firelocks. When referring to an army-issued firelock, it's a musket. This does not count privately owned hunting arms such as rifles, fowlers, blunderbusses etc.

POLICY & INSPECTION
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Why are we doing this?

In 1777, the Lights were an elite, specially trained company. The quality of these troops was reflected not only in their training but also in how they carried themselves and took care of their equipment.

"A filthy musket besmirches the whole company" (Sandford, Lieut. June 18, 2001). Contemporary accounts about light infantry speak of how they were always ready for action. And, one can't be ready with a dysfunctional musket.

Likewise, a dirty musket is an unsafe musket. A build-up of dirt and rust can wear down a firelock's moving parts. A good cleaning job can help a musket last a lifetime and continue to grow in value. A deteriorating musket can slip a spring, cause injury, be permanently damaged and bring on the Apocalypse.

Light company firelocks must have the following attributes:

	All metal parts on firelocks to be, clean, and oiled. All metal parts on a musket are to be 'bright' (not browned)
	all wood to be finished and clean
	all brass to be clean and free of tarnish
	Inside of lock to be oiled and free of grit and rust
	Inside of barrel to be lightly oiled and free of grit and rust
	all firelocks must have a hammer cap
	all firelocks must have a BAR regulation flash guard
	all light bobs must be able to produce a turn key
	all muskets slings to be of black leather
	all muskets must have a bayonet
	Any firelock that will not take a military bayonet must have a sidearm (preferably a plug bayonet)

In the Lights, there is a company inspection in the morning of every day at every event. This inspection is run by the sergeants and records (particularly of defaulters) are kept for the officers.

Each and every man is expected to have an oiled, clean, and serviceable firelock. This does not mean the firelock has to be parade-square sparkling. If there is a little grit due to weather or action, that's okay. However, it must be clear that a concerted effort has been put into keeping the firelock workable and relatively clean.

If a sergeant deems a firelock neglected or unsafe, the owner of that firelock will have failed inspection. If a soldier fails an inspection, he will have his name recorded, he will lose his day's grog ration, he will be on pot- cleaning duty during evening mess and he will be made to clean his musket under supervision of an NCO.

The thought of losing grog alone should be enough to put the fear of God into any Light Bob worth his salt.

Why such an emphasis upon the bayonet?

Note that two of the points in policy touch upon having a bayonet. This is important. All Sir John's soldiers are obliged to have a bayonet. This is especially pertinent for the flank companies. The bayonet is the soldier's sword and it is a minor dishonour to us all when you are unable to fix one during ceremony or action.

Some folks don't carry army muskets and therefore have a piece that will not take a regular socket bayonet. Despite this problem, these folks should have some sort of side arm to replace the bayonet. We'd prefer if you used a plug bayonet. Talk to your officers about what is appropriate.

MATERIALS
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At the very least, a soldier should have a rag and "turn key" as part of his kit. These items allow a soldier to keep his firelock minimally serviceable for field use. However, a rag and turn key is not enough for serious firelock maintenance.

In order to give your firelock the attention it deserves, soldiers are encouraged to build/acquire a firelock cleaning kit. Click here for more information on what kind of tools make up a cleaning kit.

Keep your amazing firelock cleaning kit in your haversack for easy access AND to impress the girls (they lo-ove those ramrod worms)! Other items you can add to your kit are things like a muzzle stopper and lock cover.

WHERE TO GET STUFF
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There are a number of interesting reproduction items that go into firelock maintenance.

Use this chart for quick reference:

HOW IT'S DONE
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Once you have all your period materials, you'll find cleaning with them so effective you may never go back to a modern method. A firelock should be cleaned after fouling, or every six months if it is in storage. Yes, firelocks can and do collect dirt and moisture by just sitting in the closet or on the wall. To maintain your investment, clean regularly.

AFTER YOU HAVE FIRED...and have fouled the firelock, follow these simple instructions:

THINGS NOT TO DO
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Besides the obvious disasters, like having no hammer cap or leaving your firelock out in the rain all night, the following are things that are ill-advised and could cause injury:

	NEVER use linseed oil to clean a musket. Linseed oil dries into a gummy build-up that is highly combustible.
	IF you own a British-made gun, the stock is most likely "pinned" to the barrel. Do not remove these pins in order to clean the entire barrel. You should never have to clean the underside of a barrel but if you feel you do, please consult a gunsmith.
	DO NOT disassemble the inside of your lock. This should only be done when the inside of the lock has been fouled to the point of being a hazard (and it should never have had an opportunity to get this way). If you are in a position where you have to strip the lock only use the tools designed for the purpose. Never use a pair of vicegrips. Always make a sketch of how the pieces go back together.
	IF you have purchased a worm, make sure it threads tightly around your ramrod. You may need an adaptor or to re-thread your ramrod for it to work.
	DO NOT overload your worm with too much tow. You run the risk of getting the whole mess stuck down your barrel.
	NEVER NEVER NEVER put any projectile down the barrel unless you are on a supervised gun range.
	NEVER NEVER NEVER point the muzzle at another person.
	NEVER NEVER NEVER assume the gun is unloaded.
	NEVER NEVER NEVER roll cartridges near an open flame or spark.
	ALWAYS seek the advice of an experienced gunsmith if you are taking on a job that is beyond your skill level. Colin Post of the Artillery section is the KRRNY official gunsmith. Ask him questions and trust his advice. He is experienced and knows what he's doing.
	Do not overload your cartridges with powder. Sure, they make a neat big bang, but they are dangerous. 100 grains max please.

WHAT'S WRONG WITH MODERN CLEANING METHODS?
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There is nothing inherently wrong with cleaning your gun with modern materials. Even those who clean their firelock the period way 99.9% of the time, may do one full and thorough modern cleaning job during the off season.

The thing about modern cleaners is that if you are doing things right with period cleaners, you don't need them. Diligent maintenance with the period method is not only as effective, some argue it is more effective and preserves the piece longer.

Cleaning chemicals such as Autosol, Flitz, Brasso, and Neverdull are harsh, expensive, and environmentally unfriendly, not to mention an eyesore at an event. They also contain ingredients that may harm your piece, especially the wood. For example, many are unaware that WD-40 is a water-based lubricant and thus can actually aid in rusting your steel.

There is much merit in period cleaning methods. Once you become a convert, you may never go back.

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